The Wave Equation
Pluck a guitar string and it springs to life: a shape ripples up and down the wire, bounces off the
far end, races back, and the whole thing sings a clean, definite note. Flick a long rope you're
holding and a hump of rope shoots away from your hand and travels down the line, keeping its shape as
it goes. In both cases nothing material travels the length of the string — each little bit of wire or
rope only bobs up and down about its resting place — yet a disturbance sweeps along
at a well-defined speed. What law governs that travelling shape?
The astonishing answer is that a single equation captures all of it — the guitar note, the rope
flick, and (with the right symbols swapped in) sound in air, ripples on water, light in a vacuum, and
the vibration of a bridge. It is the wave equation, and this page builds the simplest
version — a stretched string moving in one dimension — from nothing more than Newton's second law
applied to a tiny slice of string. Once we have it, we'll read what it says, and then meet
d'Alembert's beautiful discovery that any shape at all is a legal wave.
The setup: a stretched string that wiggles a little
Picture a string pulled taut with tension T (measured in newtons) and
made of some material with a linear mass density \mu
(mass per unit length, in \text{kg/m}). At rest it lies flat along the
x-axis. Now nudge it, so that at position x and
time t the string is displaced sideways by a small amount
y(x,t). The whole game is to find the equation that
y(x,t) must obey.
We make one honest simplifying assumption: the displacements are small, so the
string is only ever gently sloped. "Small" has a precise pay-off — the slope
\partial y/\partial x is tiny, so the angle
\theta the string makes with the horizontal is small too, and we may use
\sin\theta \approx \tan\theta = \partial y/\partial x and
\cos\theta \approx 1. This keeps the tension essentially constant along the
string and lets each little element move purely up and down, not along its length.
Newton's second law on a single slice
Zoom in on one short element of the string, stretching from x to
x + dx. Two forces act on it, one from the string pulling at each end. At
the right end the neighbouring string pulls with tension T directed along
the tangent there; at the left end it pulls with tension T along
its tangent, in the opposite sense. Because the string is curved, those two tangents point in
slightly different directions — and that mismatch is the whole story. Reveal the figure step by step.
Horizontal balance. Both tensions are nearly horizontal
(\cos\theta \approx 1), and they point opposite ways, so their horizontal
components cancel. The element does not accelerate along x — good, that
matches our picture of pure up-and-down motion.
Vertical (transverse) force. The vertical component of each tension is
T\sin\theta \approx T\,\dfrac{\partial y}{\partial x}, evaluated at that
end. The net upward force on the element is the right-end pull minus the left-end pull:
F_y \approx T\left.\frac{\partial y}{\partial x}\right|_{x+dx} - T\left.\frac{\partial y}{\partial x}\right|_{x}.
That difference of a function across a gap dx is exactly what a derivative
measures. Divide and multiply by dx:
F_y \approx T\,\frac{\bigl.\partial y/\partial x\bigr|_{x+dx} - \bigl.\partial y/\partial x\bigr|_{x}}{dx}\,dx = T\,\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial x^2}\,dx.
So the net transverse force is tension times curvature times the element's width. A
string that is curved concave-up (a valley) feels a net upward force; concave-down (a hill) feels a
net downward force. The string is always pushed back toward straightness — and the more sharply it is
bent, the harder the push.
Putting F = ma together
Our element has mass (density times length) dm = \mu\,dx, and its upward
acceleration is the second time-derivative of its displacement,
\partial^2 y/\partial t^2. Newton's second law,
F_y = dm\cdot a_y, reads
T\,\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial x^2}\,dx = (\mu\,dx)\,\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial t^2}.
The width dx cancels from both sides — a sign we've found something local
and universal, not a fact about our particular slice. Dividing by \mu
gives the star of the show:
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The equation. A small transverse displacement y(x,t)
of a stretched string obeys
\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial t^2} = v^2\,\frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial x^2}.
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The wave speed. The constant that appears is fixed entirely by the string's
tension and density,
v = \sqrt{\dfrac{T}{\mu}}\,.
Tighter or lighter string ⇒ faster waves; heavier string ⇒ slower waves.
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What it says in words. Acceleration is proportional to curvature. Wherever the
string is bent, it accelerates back toward straight, at a rate set by v^2.
Notice that v^2 = T/\mu has units
\text{N} / (\text{kg/m}) = (\text{kg·m/s}^2)/(\text{kg/m}) = \text{m}^2/\text{s}^2,
so v really is a speed. Everything checks out.
d'Alembert's solution: any shape is a wave
Here is the magic. Take any smooth shape you like — call it
f(u) — and let it slide bodily to the right at speed
v by feeding it the combination x - vt:
y(x,t) = f(x - vt).
As t grows, the value the string had at x=0 is
now found at x = vt: the whole profile marches to the right, rigidly,
keeping its shape. Drag the time slider below and watch the pulse glide. It need not be a sine wave —
a single bump, a triangle, a jagged spike, it all travels.
Does it really solve the equation? Let u = x - vt and
use the chain rule. Differentiating in space, \partial u/\partial x = 1,
so
\frac{\partial y}{\partial x} = f'(u),\qquad \frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial x^2} = f''(u).
Differentiating in time, \partial u/\partial t = -v, so each time-derivative
brings down a factor of -v:
\frac{\partial y}{\partial t} = -v\,f'(u),\qquad \frac{\partial^2 y}{\partial t^2} = (-v)^2 f''(u) = v^2 f''(u).
Compare the two second derivatives:
\partial^2 y/\partial t^2 = v^2 f''(u) and
v^2\,\partial^2 y/\partial x^2 = v^2 f''(u). They are equal —
for every choice of f. The same works for a left-mover
g(x + vt) (now the factor is (+v)^2, still
v^2). Because the equation is linear, you can add the two:
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General solution. Every solution of the 1-D wave equation is a right-mover plus
a left-mover:
y(x,t) = f(x - vt) + g(x + vt),
for arbitrary (twice-differentiable) shapes f and
g.
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Fixed by the start. The two shapes are pinned down by the initial displacement
and initial velocity of the string — give those, and the future is completely determined.
Worked examples
Example 1 — verifying a given shape. Does
y(x,t) = A\,e^{-(x - vt)^2} solve the wave equation? It has the form
f(x - vt) with f(u) = A e^{-u^2}, so by
d'Alembert's result it is a right-moving solution automatically — no grinding through derivatives
needed. It is a bell-shaped bump that slides right at speed v without
changing shape. Any function of the single combination x - vt passes the
test; y = \sin(x)\cos(t) at first glance does not look like it — but a
trig identity splits it into \tfrac12\sin(x-t) + \tfrac12\sin(x+t), a
right-mover plus a left-mover, so it solves the equation with v = 1.
Example 2 — computing the wave speed. A guitar string has tension
T = 80\ \text{N} and linear density
\mu = 5.0\times 10^{-3}\ \text{kg/m}. Its wave speed is
v = \sqrt{\frac{T}{\mu}} = \sqrt{\frac{80}{5.0\times 10^{-3}}} = \sqrt{16{,}000} \approx 126\ \text{m/s}.
Waves travel that fast along the wire. (Tighten the string — raise T — and
v rises, so the pitch climbs; that's exactly what a tuning peg does.)
Example 3 — working backwards. A rope carries transverse waves at
v = 20\ \text{m/s} under a tension of
T = 50\ \text{N}. What is its linear density? Rearranging
v = \sqrt{T/\mu} gives \mu = T/v^2:
\mu = \frac{T}{v^2} = \frac{50}{20^2} = \frac{50}{400} = 0.125\ \text{kg/m}.
Watch out — this is the classic mix-up, and it snags almost everyone. There are
two completely different speeds in play. The wave speed
v = \sqrt{T/\mu} is how fast the shape travels along the string;
it is a fixed property of the tension and density and does not depend on how big the wiggle is. The
transverse speed \partial y/\partial t is how fast a
given bit of string material bobs up and down — and that does depend on the size of
the wave, and it is different at every point and every instant (zero at the crests, largest as the
string whips through the axis).
No piece of string ever travels down the line at speed v. Think of a
stadium "Mexican wave": the wave races around the stadium, but every spectator only stands up and sits
down on the spot. The people are the string; the wave is the pattern moving through them.
Not at all — and this is the point most easily missed. The wave equation never mentions sines. Its
general solution, f(x - vt) + g(x + vt), works for any
shapes f and g: a single hump, a square pulse, a
sawtooth, the random jitter you make by flicking a rope once. All of them travel rigidly at speed
v.
So why is the sine wave everywhere in physics? Because of a second, separate fact — Fourier's
theorem — which says any shape can be built by adding up sine waves of different
frequencies. Sines are special not because the wave equation demands them, but because they are the
convenient building blocks, and on this string every one of them travels at the same speed
v, so any combination keeps its shape. That last part is what makes the
string "non-dispersive" — and it's why a plucked note stays a clean note instead of smearing out as
it bounces.